Luck is a stone tortoise

After the excitement of shopping it was time to hit the sights with my guide, Anh. It might seem a bit posh to have a guide, but believe me – you need it. English isn’t a strong point in Vietnam. Even in our five-star hotel (which offered ‘the highest levers of personal care’) we found an alarming description of Buntuot Indonesian Oxtail Soup: A ‘reach clear Oxtail Soup flavoured with nutmeg and gloves.’ No, please! Hold the gloves – just make mine a pair of mittens…

“Would you like to go to Maison Centrale?” Anh asked. It sounded lovely, some sort of café I thought - so why not. What I didn’t realise is that Maison Centrale is actually Vietnam’s Hao Lo prison – nicknamed the Hanoi Hilton by American POWs. I certainly don’t think the accommodation standards will be causing the Hiltons any sleepless nights – a few dark dingy cells, and for the unlucky few on death row, a guillotine.

In contrast, the Temple of Literature, Vietnam’s oldest university, was airy and spacious. Beautifully manicured gardens surrounded the eleventh century building – but without doubt the main draw was the 82 stone tortoises bearing the names of the university’s graduates. Legend has it that by rubbing the head and head-stone of each and every tortoise, you will have great luck – particularly with any forthcoming exams. So, half an hour later - and with silky-smooth hands -I was feeling very lucky indeed. Shame I don't have any exams to do!

Pictures: guillotine; University gardens; stone tortoises; University temple; marionettes