Langkawi

Dom started his Executive MBA course this month and one glance at the timetable told me that November would be a write-off. So October was our last chance to fit in a short break before all mayhem broke loose. Trouble was where to go. Much of South-East Asia is in rainy season at the moment and while a bit of rain never hurt anyone, a non-stop torrential monsoon doesn’t do much for the holiday mood. Langkawi is an island just off the north-west of the Malaysian peninsula, a stone’s throw away from the Thai border. It would not be immune from the monsoon; however the general consensus in the guide books was visit any time, since even during rainy season the rain was confined to sporadic downpours followed by more sun.

Well, never believe what the guide-books tell you! Out of three days we had one day of great weather and two pretty soggy days. However it was interesting to note that whatever the weather at breakfast, within half an hour you could guarantee a complete turnaround. Bright sun and not a cloud in the sky? I bet it will be pouring down in half an hour. Dull, grey and a strong breeze? Save your seat by the pool, the sun is coming soon! Luckily we timed things just right. On our second day we had amazing weather and were able to swim in the sea and lounge out by the pool. The next day started off with a heavy shower but fortunately we had hired a car to go and explore. On the plus side, I figured it would be a good day to see the various waterfalls in full flow!

So here’s where to go (or not, as the case may be!). Our starting point was the Tanjung Santuary resort on the west coast. Heading clockwise, the first stop is Pantai Kok, which has been developed with a marina. The place looked like a bit of a ghost town to be honest, but nearby is the Langkawi Cable Car, apparently the world’s steepest cable car. On a clear day the views must be spectacular, however we could see the cables disappearing into a pea soup of fog so we didn’t go up. (I’m being kind to Dom here since even if the visibility was amazing, there’s more chance of him going to the moon than getting on a cable car).

We took the steep and winding road up towards The Datai, one of the most plush top-end resorts. Luckily you don’t have to spend a fortune in the Datai just to get the views as the road offers several vistas out to sea, not to mention the Temurun Waterfall, a good place to have a picnic. We got chatting to a bunch of local kids who were climbing up the slippery rocks behind the waterfall and jumping into the pool. (This I would not advise, but each to their own!).

Backtracking from the Datai and heading clockwise around the island took us to Black Sand Beach, although the sand was not black at all as far as I could see. The beach was quite pleasant, except for the rather strange sight of a Cement Factory to the western edge. Further round still, we foundTanjung Rhu beach, probably the most picturesque of all. The water here was much clearer than at our hotel. The Four Seasons and Tanjung Rhu Resort are here, and well worth checking out I reckon. There are various options for boat trips from Tanjung Rhu beach, taking in a bat cave, amongst other things.

Heading towards the south coast, I had an idea that we would get lunch in Kuah, but when we got there frankly it looked like a bit of a dump, so we motored on to Pantai Tengah and Pantai Cenang, the main tourist drags on the south-west tip of the island. Of course, I had forgotten that Pantai Cengang is a favourite hang-out for back-packers; hence the shore is lined with low-rent hotels and cheap restaurants. It’s an unfortunate place to be when you’re starving, but not as unfortunate as the dire restaurant we settled on, with its gloomy red interior and large population of flies. Gordon Ramsay would have had a field day, that’s all I’m saying. There is just one saving grace in the area, The Lighthouse restaurant, on a secluded beach away from it all, is a great place for lunch or a drink. What a shame we didn’t find it sooner!

You really do need to hire a car if you want to leave your resort. Although it’s a small place, there’s no public transport on Langkawi and the taxis are not cheap. Be warned though, even if you escape your resort for dinner elsewhere, Langkawi is not a cheap place. We could easily spend RM700 (over $300) on dinner, and I know if we went to the Datai it would be even more. Unless you want to slum it in Pentai Cenang, Langkawi is definitely not a bargain destination. Nor is it the most interesting or unspoilt place I have visited, so 3 days is quite enough. However if it’s a beach bum holiday you’re after, go in the right season, head to the north coast and you’ll be blessed with gorgeous weather and beautiful sea.

Tanjung Sanctuary website: http://tanjungsanctuary.com.my/
Pictures at: http://picasaweb.google.com/dominicherring/Langkawi?feat=directlink